首页  >   人文地理|海南人为什么爱喝老爸茶?Why do Hainanese love Daddy Tea?

人文地理|海南人为什么爱喝老爸茶?Why do Hainanese love Daddy Tea?

2019-05-22 来源:南海网

  编者语:

  南海网国际传播中心肩负新闻传播、文化传播和教育传播的使命。从今天起,南海网推出有关海南人文地理的中英文双语文本,迈出文化传播的第一步,还将陆续推出系列篇章,为今后的相关传播做好铺垫。敬请关注。

The International Media Center of hinews.cn undertakes the mission of news,culture and education communication.Today,hinews.cn has launched bilingual articles on Hainan's human geography in both Chinese and English.By taking the first step in cultural dissemination,it will launch a series of chapters for further related dissemination.Stay tuned for further update.

Translated by Liu Ping Source:hinews.cn

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  海南文化学者胡卫东在一次演讲中谈到:海南是沿海地区,是一个台风频发的地区,由于自然的因素导致了台风频繁。沿海地区的男人上船海捞,女人负责劳作,为什么女人干的活更累,而她们却任劳任怨呢?因为她们干的活虽然很苦,但却没风险。这也是海南第一次男女分工的形成,且分工的比较彻底。那时候海南下南洋的比较多,下南洋以后带回了商业文化,商业文化需要交流信息,所以海南就出现了喝老爸茶现象,这也加强了男女分工现象。

In a speech,Hu Weidong,a cultural scholar in Hainan said that Hainan is a coastal area with frequent typhoons which are caused by natural factors.In coastal areas,men go fishing and women are responsible for other work.Why do women work harder yet they are willing to work without complaint?That's because their work is hard,but they are not at risk.This is also the first time that the division of labor between men and women has been formed in Hainan,and the division of labor is quite thorough.At that time,lots of people from Hainan went to Southeast Asia countries to make a living.And they brought back commercial culture afterwards.Because of the need for information exchange in commercial culture,the phenomenon of having Daddy tea appeared in Hainan ever since,which also strengthened the division of labor between men and women.

  这样的分工让记者想到这样的画面——海岛上的男人们拍着胸脯对女人们说:男主外女主内,海上的事情是外,岛上的事情是内,外边的事情归我们男人,岛上的耕种和家务归你们!

This division of labor reminds the journalist of the picture of men clapping their chest saying to women:There is a saying goes that the men take cares for the outside while the women looks after the inside.The things at the sea are the outside while the things on the island are the inside.Things on the outside belong to our men so farming and housework on the island belong to you!

  海南男人有的闯南洋,有的出海捕鱼,把耕田种地的重活撂给了女人们。后来,男人们不再闯南洋,捕鱼也越来越不容易,一部分人转而寻求读书之类的出路。另一部分人未必读书,干别的活在等机会,空闲下来只好休闲喝茶。

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Some men went to Southeast Asia countries and some went fishing hence heavy work like farming are left to women.Later,men no longer sought their dreams in Southeast Asia countries and fishing was becoming more and more difficult.Some people then turned to find a way out such as receiving education.Yet some others did not want to do so,instead,they took on some other work for livelihood and waited for opportunities.Drinking tea became their only recreation when they were free.

  海南女人们在辛勤劳作中习惯了自己的角色,依然在田地里干活,或操持“风采车”之类的小生意。喝“老爸茶”却成了男人们喜爱的“传统”和习惯……这种情形文昌、琼海较为普遍。但在万宁,万宁的男人常常是跟女性一起做农活的,而且重活通常由男的来干,比如说开荒、犁田,上山砍柴等,多是男的来完成。认为女性腰软、心细,插秧之类的轻活就让她们来做。万宁男人多显得孔武彪悍、声音洪亮、较有血性,往往是苦出来的。

Hainan women are used to their roles in hard work,and still working in the fields,or operating small businesses like driving tricycles to carry passengers.And drinking"Daddy Tea"has become a"tradition"and habit that men really enjoy...This kind of scene is more common in Wenchang and Qionghai.But in Wanning,men often share farm work with women,and heavy work is usually done by men,such as opening up waste land,plowing fields and cutting firewood on the mountain etc.They reckon women are weaker in physical strength but more careful than men,so women should do the work requiring less physical strength and more care such as transplanting rice seedlings.Most of the Wanning men looked strong and forceful with a loud voice,which can often be contributed to the hard work.

  胡卫东的说法用来解释海南沿海市县的情况言之成理,但像农耕色彩甚浓的定安和屯昌,几乎没有与海洋密切相关的劳作,其老爸茶店同样林立。相反,冬暖夏凉的五指山市人,原本意义上的老爸茶店少见,人们喜欢在河边摆桌饮茶赏景,只求更为闲适享受。这又怎么解释呢?记者倾向于认为,老爸茶店的兴盛与否,与海洋和南洋现象没有直接关系,主要还是取决于气候是否长期炎热。而昼夜温度偏高的市县,比如昌江,老爸茶店也少见,因为昌江人要喝茶,宁愿增添生活成本——待在有空调的屋子里喝。

Hu Weidong's statement makes sense to explain the situation in Hainan's coastal cities and counties.However,in Ding’an and Tunchang,where farming are prosperous,have almost no labor related to the sea,yet"Daddy Tea"shops can be found easily.On the contrary,in Wuzhishan City where warm in winter and cool in summer,Daddy Tea shops of original sense are rarely seen.There,people like to have tea at the riverside to enjoy surrounding scenery merely for the leisure joy.How can this be explained?The journalist tend to think that the prosperity of the Daddy Tea shops is not directly related to the sea and the Southeast Asia phenomenon,but mainly depending on whether the hot climate is for long-term.In cities and counties with high temperature such as Changjiang city,Daddy tea shop is also rare.Changjiang people rather increasing their cost of living to stay in an air-conditioned room for tea drinking.

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  笔者在三亚、临高、澄迈和屯昌看到过当地人夜晚露天喝老爸茶的情形。这架势颇有“白天不方便喝晚上喝,白天没喝足晚上喝个够”的意思。

The author have witnessed the local people drinking Daddy tea in the open air in Sanya,Lingao,Chengmai and Tunchang,and this can easily make one think that the men might not be convenient to drink tea or they drank not enough during the day time so they continue to do so at night.

  三亚的露天老爸茶店多设在街道两边的铺面前;屯昌县城则集中在电影院的斜对面,与电影院的生意相辅相成,相互照应,这里光线隐隐约约,是观看、议论马路上过往行人的最佳位置;临高县文澜江近千米的两岸江畔都摆了桌椅,茶客来往不断。澄迈县城的老爸茶场所就在环城大道的其中一边,没有路灯,桌椅就设在暗处,而茶水则由对面亮着灯光的店铺提供。茶客在朦胧的暗夜中喝完茶,将该付的钱放在桌上,极少有赖帐的。

Sanya’s open-air daddy tea shop are mostly located in front of the shops on both sides of streets;In Tunchang,Dadddy tea shop are aggregated at the opposite side of cinema,complementing the business of the cinema and accommodating each other.The light there is dimly,making tea shops there the best location to watch and talk about passengers on the road.The banks of the Wenlan River near Lingao County are set up with tables and chairs.Tea customers keep coming and going.The Daddy tea place in Chengmai County is on one side of Huancheng Avenue.There is no street light,tables and chairs are set in the dark,and tea is provided by the shops with lights on the opposite side.Tea customers finish their tea in the dark night,and leave before paying the bill by putting money on the table for they rarely escape the charge.

  三亚籍作家陆小华与记者谈到过三亚老爸茶:三亚人街边露天喝的茶,叫“老爸茶”。摆茶摊的摊主也不管顾客一拨来的人多人少,每一桌、每一壶茶只收二十元。按照这价格,肯定是挣不到多少钱的。这应该算是这个城市里最低廉的一种茶饮了。我们愿意去,倒也不是为了省钱。说白了,就是喜欢那种坐在街头、马路边上,四周开阔,说话不吵,抽烟不熏,白天看天、看流云。晚上看星星、看月亮,让人有一种通天接地的感觉。三亚地区长年天气炎热,在马路边上的树荫下摆卖茶饮的历史可谓久矣。一干朋友,都是文化圈子里的人。他们会从历史、文化的角度去看待这街边的老爸茶。经过若干次论证后,最后一致认定:老爸茶也是三亚城市文化的一部分。

Lu Xiaohua,a writer from Sanya talked about Sanya Daddy Tea with the journalist:The tea Sanya people drink in the open air on the street is called"Daddy Tea".Each pot of tea for each table is charged no more than 20 Yuan by the owner of the tea booth regardless of the number of customer.With this price,the owner of the booth would definitely not make much.This should be considered the cheapest tea in the city.We are willing to go there not for saving money.To be honest,we like the feeling of sitting on the road side enjoying the wide openness with less noise and pollution from smoke.We enjoy watching the sky and clouds during the day and the stars and the moon at night,which make us feel closer to the nature.Sanya is in hot weather all year long and selling tea under the tree on the road side has a long history.A group of friends from the culture circle would consider Daddy tea from a historical and cultural perspective.After rounds of argument and reasoning,they finally reached a consensus that Daddy tea is part of urban culture of Sanya.

  “老爸茶”终究是气候环境的产物

“Daddy Tea”,the product of climate environment.

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  十多年前,海口等地茶艺馆风行,龙昆南路有“中国茶道”和“世纪茶艺”两家盛极一时的茶艺馆,这应当是老爸茶店的升级换代,后来是“xx咖啡”的流行,与老爸茶似乎脱离了干系。但和老爸茶的功用都有共同之处:热带地区的人们尤其需要“加水”。

More than a decade ago,the teahouses in Haikou and other places were popular.“Chinese Tea Ceremony”and“Century Tea Art”are the two well fame tea houses in Longkun South Road.This should be the upgrade of Daddy Tea Shop.The popularity of the later appeared“xx Coffee”seemed to have no relation to Daddy tea.But they still have something in common:people in tropical area need"sustainable water supply"for their drinks.

  有什么样的气候环境,就会有什么样的生活方式,生活方式固化自然就会形成习惯,喝“老爸茶”且交流信息正是热岛上长期被接受的习惯,这种习惯渐成一种文化现象。

Climate environment determines lifestyle,and a fix lifestyle would naturally form a habit.Drinking"Daddy tea"and exchanging information is a long-accepted habit on this tropical island,and this habit gradually becomes a cultural phenomenon.

  老爸茶的盛行集中体现好些海南人那种闲适、随意、松散、爱热闹的生存状态。相对低消费的茶坊或茶场(所)也成了茶客们信息和思想交流的乐园,一切苦痛、烦恼、孤寂、困惑……都可以在这里消解。同样,欢乐、得意、荣耀也可以在这里张扬膨胀。这种场所笑脸最多,说话像在比赛谁声音大。你可以袒胸露臂,可以粗声大气,高声吆喝,可以吹吹牛皮,甚至小打小闹,打打扑克放纵自己。长期泡在老爸茶坊,在消解烦恼的同时,同样也会把曾经有过的激情和雄心壮志消解得云淡风轻。

The prevalence of Daddy tea reflects the leisure,casual,loose,and lively living conditions of Hainanese.The relatively low-consumption tea shops have become an amusement park for tea customers to exchange information and thoughts.All the pains,worries,loneliness,and confusion can be dissolved here.Similarly,joy,pride,and glory can also find their arena here.Smiling faces can easily be seen and people seem to shout when having conversation like,competing their voice volume.You can wear casually exposing your neck and shoulders and talk as loud as you wish,you can boast around and even have a roughhousing,and play poker to indulge yourself.After spending so much time in Daddy tea house for a long time,the passion and ambition that one used to have may also gone while dispelling their troubles.

  海南白天通常炎热,需要饮品解渴,“老爸茶”成本低,可以长时间解渴;老爸茶店里吃的喝的都有,茶友之间容易找到“共同语言”,可以像跑马拉松般长谈,习惯了大家都不觉得丢份……这是海南人爱喝老爸茶、老爸茶长期兴盛的根本原因,跟一个地方的人懒不懒没有直接关系。

​It is usually hot during the day time in Hainan,and drinks are essential to quench one's thirst.For its low cost,"Daddy tea"is suitable for long term and frequent drinking.Daddy tea shop has various food and drinks.It is easy for tea mates to find"common language"and they can have long talks as they want.People are used to this kind of activity and no one would feel embarrassed.This is the root cause for Hainanese love to drink Daddy tea and its long-term prosperity.It has no direct relation to the laziness of people in a place.


责任编辑:陈贤玉
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